After our positive experience on Denman, we were excited to explore another of BC’s beautiful islands, Quadra, which is one of the Discovery Islands located further north of the Gulf Islands.
We took the short ferry ride from Campbell River to the island where our host, Linda, was waiting for us. The ferry comes into the community of Quathiaski Cove, one of the three main centres on the island, along with Heriot Bay and Cape Mudge. We stopped to look around the small shopping centre in Q Cove while Linda ran some errands. There was a fantastic book shop specialising in British Columbia coastal books that I somehow managed to not buy, it always helps when you don’t actually have any money.
After leaving the shops in Q Cove we headed over to the other side of the island to Heriot Bay where Linda’s guesthouse is located. It is right on the water and offers a range of different accommodation choices including a float home (not in the water), a cottage, boathouse cabin, dorm rooms, apartments and a main house with B&B rooms. Linda has made it so cosy and I love that there are different types of accommodation at different prices. It is exactly the sort of place I would love to own myself one day.
Heriot Bay has stunning views of the tiny Breton islands, Rebecca Spit and the snow-capped coastal mountains on the mainland. I fell in love with the place instantly. It really is incredibly scenic. The water is so still and clear and I wish it had been warm enough to swim.
Linda put us in the float home first but as the mattress was only a single, she said we could stay in the Boathouse cabin, provided we kept it tidy in case someone wanted to rent it. Trav and I are both super tidy so that was no problem. The boat house is along a beachside path and although small, it is a completely self-contained studio style apartment comprising a raised double bed, a cute little kitchen and a dining table with an outdoor shower and outhouse toilet. Trav was brave and showered outside everyday but it was too cold for me! I used the shower in the main house and even had a couple of highly relaxing baths in one of the B & B rooms, what a treat!
The boathouse is built on stilts out over the pebbly beach. Every morning when we woke up, we made coffee in our little kitchen then sat at the table, looking out over Heriot Bay. We saw bald eagles and seals out of the window, only metres away from us. Watching the sun rise through the morning mist was a great way to start each day.
We were also spoilt with really good food. Jess, one of Linda’s friends, was staying for the first three days we were there and made us lunch and dinner each day. She is a Kayak guide and cook in summer and is a cook at a Lodge in winter. She is very good at what she does. We had fresh salmon, homemade soups and salads, apple crumble, locally picked mushroom pasta and slow cooked stew.
If it started getting cold in Denman, then it really settled in on Quadra. It was lucky I got warm clothes at the Free Store on Denman, because I needed to wear pretty much all of them to keep warm on the frosty mornings and chilly nights as the season of crimson leaves and pumpkins gripped the island. Despite the cold, it was sunny nearly every day that we were there, in stark contrast to our soggy sojourn on Denman.
As we were at the Guesthouse in the off season, there weren’t any guests staying for the week we were there. Because there were no rooms to clean, we did some odd jobs such as weeding, creating a rock garden, cooking, cleaning and Linda even took us mushroom picking.
Chanterelle mushrooms grow in the forests of Quadra in Fall. These unusual looking, bright orange fungi grow in clusters amongst the moss at the base of trees. We went to an overgrown section of the forest where Linda had picked before. There were so many large mushrooms and within half an hour of clambering over fallen, rotting trees and moss covered undergrowth, we had filled a bucket each. I lost the others and it was fun exploring the hidden forested world by myself. I wouldn’t have been surprised to bump into a fairy or a gnome, it was certainly a fairy tale setting.
Heriot Bay with its natural beauty just invited a stroll. On a few afternoons after finishing work for the day we went for a wander around the streets and harbour of this tiny community. The Heriot Bay Inn and Pub is nestled in a prime position, perched above the branch strewn and pebbled beach, awash with the colours of the season from the stately maple trees fringing the property. We sat under the brilliant coloured trees and went for walks along the curved beach, checking out the weather worn fishing boats in the harbour.
Quadra Island has 2700 year round residents including the We Wai Kai band of the Laichwiltach People, part of the Kwa’ Kwa’ Ka’ Wa’Kw First Nation. It is the largest island in the Discovery Islands chain between Vancouver Island and the mainland. There are a number of lakes on Quadra and over 200km of hiking trails through untouched forest. My kind of place.
On our day off, Linda dropped us at the Chinese Mountain trailhead, a popular loop trail to the summit of the North and South peaks of Chinese Mountain. It was a fairly easy hike past yellow leaved trees and exposed moss covered rock. We went up to the North Peak first which was a bit of a detour off the main loop trail. There is a beautiful view at the top of Discovery Passage and Vancouver Island. We didn’t see anyone else out walking despite it being a beautiful, sunny Thanksgiving Sunday. Once we got to the top of the South peak we finally saw a few people around.
The view from the top of South peak was spectacular, looking out over the west coast of Quadra Island, Morte Lake, Rebecca Spit, Discovery Passage and the Coast Mountains of Vancouver Island.
We ate our packed lunch at the top and checked out all of the viewpoints before starting the second half of the loop to hike back down. I lost Trav for a while when he went down the wrong path but we found each other again before long.
We hitched once we got back on the road and scored a ride straight away with another couple that had also just finished the hike. They were visiting from Courtenay where they have a farm. They take on woofers so we told them about Help X and how it works. They were very interested and said they would check it out.
Rebecca Spit is another definite highlight of Quadra Islands. It is a narrow 2km sand spit with trails and driftwood strewn beaches. Linda took us there on our first afternoon for a wander. More fantastic views of the snow-capped Coast Mountains, the Breton Islands and Heriot Bay. It was a fantastic introduction to the natural beauty of this island. We sat on the beach and watched the ferry silently round the tip of Rebecca Spit, making its trip to Cortes Island.
A fun afternoon was spent kayaking around Heriot Island using the kayaks from the Guesthouse. I am not a keen kayaker usually. It is an activity that I always think will be great fun but when it comes down to it, I haven’t enjoyed most of my kayaking experiences, mainly because I get seasick.
Yep, I get seasick from kayaking. Weird huh? I also get seasick when I (try to) surf. I really love the sea but it doesn’t like me.
The water is so calm in the bay so I decided to give it another try and I am so glad that I did. We only went out for an hour but it was such a beautiful experience. We saw hundreds of jellyfish swimming at different depths in the inky black water and a great blue heron perched to dive for fish on the rocky island. I will definitely go kayaking again but perhaps only when the water is calm.
We like to attend community events when visiting small towns if possible, as it is a fun way to get more of a feel for what life is like for the people who live there. Like on Denman, Heriot Bay is a small, close-knit community and there are a lot of fun activities held nearly every day of the week.
We attended the Premiere of a short film that was filmed on Quadra by a local Director with local actors. It was $5 to attend and there was a massive turn out. There were complimentary homemade goodies, popcorn as well as tea and coffee on offer. The movie was called ‘My Cousin Lived Next Door’ and it is about two cousins who grew up together with one ending up as a Professional in Vancouver and the other as a drug addict. It was well shot and interesting but I found it a bit hard to follow in regards to the same character being played by 3 different people at different ages. They gave awards to the cast and crew who attended after the film finished. It was a nice feeling to be a part of it.
Another local event, the ‘meat draw’, is a raffle held at the Canadian Legion every Saturday evening. Linda took us along with her for a drink and the chance to win some meat. The first couple of draws we didn’t win anything but on the last draw we won a massive ham and some sausages. Trav thinks that having a raffle for meat is pretty funny but as a New Zealander, this is pretty normal to me.
Linda’s friend Frank lives down the road and is a very talented Stonemason. As well as building the outdoor fireplace at Linda’s, he was building one in his own backyard along with a pizza oven and invited us all over for a drink by the fire one night. It was a cold evening but after sitting by the roaring fire for a while we warmed up pretty fast. He had done an amazing job so far and it was nice to sit outside on a cold Fall night, kept warm and entranced by the orange flames against the black night sky.
When we were looking at flights back to New Zealand for October, I was adamant that we fly after Canadian Thanksgiving which is on the second Monday of the month. Thanksgiving celebrates the harvest and blessings of the past year and is a time for family to come together to feast on turkey and pumpkin pie. It is a lot of Canadian’s favourite holiday and I can see why, as it is a time to enjoy spending quality time and eating delicious food with family and friends, without the religious connotation and pressure/cost of gift giving.
Back when we were living in Vancouver in 2009, we didn’t celebrate it so I was so excited to be part of this fantastic celebration this time around. Linda invited Frank, her son with his girlfriend and their new born baby, her niece and husband, her friend Leslie and Leslie’s woofer. We had a really fun evening starting with some beers out by the outdoor fireplace that Frank had built, followed by a massive turkey, a baked ham (that Trav and I had won at the meat draw), lots of veggies and two pumpkin pies. Everyone was so nice and we felt so welcome. It felt special to be involved in this quintessential Canadian experience.
I would like to come back and work for Linda again one summer to hopefully learn more about how the business is run and to get some hands on experience.
One week on Quadra was definitely not enough time, especially as we only had one full day off. It is such a beautiful island with so much to explore. I recommend to anyone that loves nature to make the time to visit this gorgeous isle.