Unexpected treasures of Denman IslandVolunteering on Denman Island only became part of our plans at the last minute because of our bad experience at Osoyoos. It is funny how the unplanned parts of your travels, and in life in general, can sometimes turn out to be the most satisfying.

After arriving by ferry from Vancouver to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island, we hitched up to Buckley Bay where the ferry departs to Denman.  We were lucky and got a ride straight away with a friendly ex-con with two little dogs who barked at us like mad when we first got in but were snuggled up next to me on a mattress in the back by the time we arrived in Buckley Bay. It started to rain while we were in the car so we had a wet crossing to the island.

Denman Island is only a ten minute ferry trip from Buckley Bay. Our Host, David, picked us up from the wharf with his two friendly Border collies, Tippy and Skipper. David’s house is perched on a hill overlooking a marsh from the back of the house, and over the sea and Hornby Island from the front.

P1150468P1150267P1150518He describes his house, which he built himself in the 1970’s, as Hippy Gothic and I think that description suits it perfectly. The house is made of recycled wood and has a lot of big windows, there is even an indoor greenhouse which is also where the shower is. It took me a couple of days to get used to but I ended up loving my open showers amongst the plants. We were given a cosy private room on the ground floor and spent our first evening listening to the sound of the heavy rain pounding on the roof.

P1150269P1150271P1150439P1150440David’s dogs, Tippy and Skipper, are such lovely creatures. Border collies always seem to have such a loving nature and these two were no exception. Skipper is Tippy’s son and is crossed with a Himalayan Sheep dog. They both have such different personalities. Tippy is so lovable and craves attention, constantly nuzzling up to you and wanting to be petted. He loves playing catch with any sticks or balls he can find. Skipper is more of a loner and is not the least bit interested in fetching a stick, he still loves a good pat though.

When we took them down to the beach, Skipper was captivated by watching the tiny fish and crabs in the tide pools. He would stand with his paws in the water, perfectly still, just staring. I wouldn’t call myself a dog person, I have always preferred cats, but these two may have just changed that.

P1150442P1150479P1150503Our work with David was varied and we were only required to work 4 hours a day so it left us with plenty of free time. David has 2 ½ acres that includes a vege patch, apple trees, walnut trees, raspberry bushes and a hen house.

My daily jobs included collecting eggs and picking up the walnuts. Trav did a lot of work sanding, plastering and painting the cabin that David built to rent out. I did some painting and managed to get paint EVERYWHERE including on my glasses and on my face and neck. We picked apples and I dug up potatoes and picked kale, raspberries and lettuce. I did a lot of gardening between the frequent rain showers. I learnt how to prune roses and grapevines and pulled out a lot of weeds. We also cleaned David’s house from top to bottom. I have found that I actually enjoy cleaning but didn’t like the close encounters with numerous spiders whilst destroying their webs.

Denman Island is not as well known by tourists as nearby Hornby Island with its white sand beach, which is reached by ferry from Gravelly Bay on Denman. A lot of tourists that set foot on Denman only do so to drive straight over to catch the ferry to Hornby, seeing very little of this incredible island. I do want to visit Hornby one day but we decided to focus all of our free time on exploring Denman this time around as we didn’t want to short-change it.

Every island has its own vibe and I wanted to find out what makes Denman unique. I came to appreciate the kindness of the locals and the simple, satisfying lives that they live on this small, forested island.

P1150495P1150327P1150345Like a lot of the other BC islands, Denman had a wave of new residents arrive in the 1970s including a lot of Vietnam War draft dodgers from the States. There was also a big back to land revolution going on with people picking up plots super cheap on the islands where they could build their homes, raise a family and live self-sustainable lives. This movement is gaining momentum again now but unfortunately any current back-to-landers that want to move out to the islands have to pay a hefty price for a piece of paradise, unlike their predecessors of the 1970s.

Minke and racoons are a big problem to the small farmers on the island and the issue is a sore point, splitting the islanders into two factions with very different ideas on how to solve the problem. David shot a couple of racoons while we were there which he didn’t enjoy doing but he didn’t see another way to effectively stop them eating his walnuts, apples and even digging up his carrots.

We also went over to his neighbour’s place to dispose of a minke that she trapped after it killed one of her chickens. Apparently Minke are quite vicious and will go on a killing frenzy, killing a whole coop of chickens if they manage to get in. It won’t even eat them, it just goes crazy with the taste of blood and will kill until there are none left.

I am an animal lover but I try to be practical and see other people’s point of view. Unfortunately there is no easy way to solve the problem with these animals and I can completely understand where David is coming from. It was upsetting to see the dead animals but he killed them quickly and painlessly and although I didn’t like it, I think he did what he felt needed to be done.

P1150338Another pest on the island is the deer. They were absolutely everywhere, wandering through the forest and treating the roads as their own private thoroughfares. The fawns were very cute but the little buggers eat everyone’s flowers and vegetable gardens so they aren’t people’s favourite animals.

Denman Island, like most of the Gulf Islands I imagine, has a small tightknit community and there were a few community events on while we were there.

David plays Volleyball every Thursday night with a ragtag bunch of locals of different ages. He persuaded us to go along and play with him on our first week. I was apprehensive as I am not exactly an avid sportswoman and I was always scared of playing volleyball when I was younger because I have very fragile wrists that hurt easily. Trav on the other hand was the Captain of his School Volleyball team in High School so he was excited to play again. I gave it a go and everyone was really patient with me but I can’t say I really enjoyed. I hurt my wrist every time I had to serve and I got hit in the face with the ball. I stayed home the following week.

There is a woman on the island who hosts small concerts at her house. Christa Couture, a folk singer from Courtenay on Vancouver Island, was playing while we were on the island and we went along with David. It was only $10 and she was so talented and such a lovely lady. There were only another four people there other than us and they had to leave to catch a ferry half way through so we basically got a private show. As well as being a fantastic singer, Christa also played piano and guitar during her performance. Her songs were melancholic and beautiful. She certainly has been through a lot in her life including losing two babies as well as her leg to bone cancer when she was 13. We felt incredibly lucky to have seen this inspirational lady perform, essentially just for us.

We attended David’s friend Tim’s housewarming one windy and rainy day. Tim is a lovely man originally from Winnipeg that decided in his 40’s that he wasn’t happy with his life and decided to up sticks and go woofing in various places around BC. He fell in love with Denman and moved there four years ago. He is a big believer in living off the grid and had a small wooden cottage built for himself with an outdoor bath tub, outhouse and a wood fire stove.

The only electricity he uses is a lamp that is hooked up to a car battery that is recharged by solar panels. He is still working on his labour of love and he plans to add an outdoor kitchen to also put the bath tub in for winter. It already looked great with lots of beautiful wooden panels creating a light, open space and making it seem larger than it is.

I really admire his passion for wanting to preserve the environment and I want to try making a concerted effort to live a more eco-friendly lifestyle in the future. The wind was howling outside but we were cosy and warm, eating the amazing pot luck offerings bought by guests and sipping on homemade flower petal tea.

Every Saturday, Denman Island has a Farmers Market in the Old School Centre with a handful of stalls. We went down there the three Saturdays that we were on the island, not so much for the market but for the free store.

P1150263The free store is basically a Secondhand store with used clothes, shoes and appliances. What made it special was that everything in there was free (the name probably already gave that little surprise away). I didn’t have much warm clothing so I picked up a jersey dress and two cardigans. I was pretty happy with my loot because the weather got cold very fast once we arrived on the island (and rainy.. boy did it rain).  The Recycling Centre and Bottle Depot for the island are also located at the Old School Centre. Everyone brings their recyclable goods down on a Saturday to get bottle deposits refunded at the Bottle Depot and to take any recycling to the Recycling Centre. There were always so many people sorting out their recycling and going through the items that had been set aside for reuse, such as bottles for home brewers, magazines/books and other interesting knick knacks that someone might want.

On one of our sunny days off, David dropped us at the north end of island where there is a forest walk to a sandy spit, the very northern point of the island. At low tide you can walk out to a small island, Sandy (aka Tree) Island, which is a Provincial Park and is made up of sand dunes and a small forest.

P1150363P1150425We walked cliff side through the forest and out onto the thin, sandy spit. There were a lot of sea birds just off shore and the wind whipped us so that despite the sun, we felt cold. The tide was still too high when we got there so we sat on the beach and ate our lunch before exploring the coastline on a walk around the rocky shore of the North West of the island. When we came back, the waters had parted and a long stretch of muddy sand stretched out before us all the way to Sandy Island. It took us about 20 minutes to walk over there and our shoes got a bit wet and muddy.

P1150424The island has a magical feel to it. There was no sign of civilisation which made it feel untamed and wild. We didn’t get to explore properly as we had to meet David who was picking us back up at 5.30pm, but we did walk through the long grasses and low bushes of the sandy peninsular. There was no one else around and the sound of the crickets chirping was almost deafening. We sat on the beach for a while enjoying the cricket symphony before starting back over the perilous wet sands to Denman. It occurred to us that we were on an island, off an island, off a larger island (Vancouver Island) off the mainland. No wonder we didn’t see any other people. It isn’t the most accessible.

P1150432Another park that we visited during our stay was at the Southern tip of the island, Boyle Point Provincial Park. I ended up hiking there a couple of times, firstly with Trav then with the other Helper that arrived in our second week, Kerstin, a lovely lady from Germany. At the southern tip of the island there is a view over a tiny craggy island, Chrome Island, which has a photogenic red and white lighthouse and station nestled into its rocky terrain.

P1150443P1150453Fillongley Park, located on the East coast of the island, is known for containing some of the largest remaining stands of Douglas Firs and Cedars in the region. Some of the trees are simply enormous, both in height and width. David took us there for a walk with the dogs through the old growth forest to the meadow where the original owner, George Beadnell, had his homestead before selling the land for $1 to the Provincial Government in 1953. The only sign that someone once lived there is an overgrown stone fountain and Mr Beadnell’s grave.

There are some great tidepools around Denman’s coast with lots of sea anemones and bright purple starfish. We collected mussels and oysters off the rocks on one of our walks and I made Moules Marinieres while David barbecued the oysters. It was a great feeling, sourcing my own food, preparing it and making it into a delicious meal. I also baked bread, made homemade apple sauce, baked apples and apple and raspberry muffins with produce I picked myself on the property. More so than ever, our stay has made me really want to have a vegetable garden and fruit trees when we get a house with a backyard. It is a great feeling to grow or forage for your own food.

P1150317P1150322Kaffe Klatsch is one of the only Cafes on the island, located in tiny Denman Village. We went there for a coffee on our first day with David and his daughter, then again after helping David’s friend Paul dig holes and plant trees on his property, he thanked us by buying us lunch. Such a lovely little place where a lot of the locals hang out. Fantastic coffee, chai lattes and the homemade roasted tomato soup was to die for. It tasted even better because we worked hard for it.

P1150260P1150264One sunny day we took out the canoe on the marsh behind David’s property. It was so still and quiet. We paddled through the water lilies and saw otters frolicking in the water and a beaver swimming around with it’s head barely above water. Such a peaceful and beautiful place to while away an afternoon.

P1150280P1150286P1150290P1150292When our two and a half weeks were up we were reluctant to leave. It had come to feel like home and we were very comfortable there with David and the dogs. We took the ferry over to Buckley Bay with David and he drove us to Courtenay, further up Vancouver Island where he has his Photography course every Tuesday and where we were taking local buses up to Campbell River to ferry to Quadra Island.

P1150546David took us to a wonderful Bakery/Café/Chocolate Shop and treated us to coffee and chocolates. I had a fantastic White Chocolate and Pumpkin Spice latte. He dropped us off at the bus stop and we said our goodbyes.

P1150547The Courtenay Museum was right next door to the bus stop and there was an hour wait for the bus so we went in to check it out and get out of the cold. It was really interesting and had great displays on the First Nations people from the area and also a lot of Palaeontology exhibits, including an entire skeleton of an Elasmosaur, the first recorded find in British Columbia. The Gift Shop had some beautiful First Nations Art.

It was a lovely ending to our enlightening stay on a friendly island where the local community is such a strong and positive force. We felt so welcome there and it only made me want to explore more of these pristine islands.

There is something very special about this part of the world and the people that inhabit it and we feel so privileged to have been a part of it, if only for a short time.

37 Comments on Unexpected treasures of Denman Island

  1. Crystal
    January 15, 2017 at 2:17 pm (2 months ago)

    This is beautifully written and I’ve been to every place you wrote about! I grew up there and my family still live on Denman. As a teen I took the serenity of the island for granted now as a mother I look forward to our visits with my family! I’m glad you got to see so much of this amazing island and the culture!
    Thank you for this amazing blog
    Cheers

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      January 15, 2017 at 4:57 pm (2 months ago)

      Thank you so much Crystal, I am really glad you enjoyed it and that it resonated with you. It is a very special island and I can’t wait to return again sometime soon

      Reply
  2. Kevin
    February 24, 2016 at 5:33 am (1 year ago)

    Thank you for a wonderful blog about a place very special to me. I grew up on Denman from 1969 to graduation and have since been living all over this great world for the past 20 years, I know precisely where you took every single picture, but really need to say a big thank you for reminding of my beautiful home island, and the reminders of whats places, I’m guilty of taking for granted, to take visitors with me this spring!

    Thanks again

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      February 24, 2016 at 9:43 am (1 year ago)

      Thank you so much for your kind words Kevin and I am really glad you enjoyed my post. Denman Island is a very special place and I am hoping to return again very soon, it feels like a home away from home now 🙂

      Reply
  3. sarah
    October 13, 2014 at 9:46 am (2 years ago)

    I love the Gulf Islands, they are all so beautiful, unique and magical. Reading this makes me a bit homesick!
    I’d love to know what the bad experience in Osoyoos was though as it’s another place I have spent a lot of time in and really love.

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      October 13, 2014 at 9:57 am (2 years ago)

      Hi Sarah, they are definitely magical. I would.love to explore more of them. We volunteered in Osoyoos at a farm run by a horrible guy who.just wanted slave labour, also one of the other volunteers drugged our food! Not fun but Osoyoos seemed like a nice place otherwise

      Reply
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  7. Margherita @The Crowded Planet
    June 1, 2014 at 3:54 pm (3 years ago)

    I have never been to BC, but if I do go there one day, I’ll make sure I check Denman out. looks great!

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      June 2, 2014 at 12:05 am (3 years ago)

      I’m pleased I have inspired you to visit! It is a beautiful Island 🙂

      Reply
  8. mytanfeet
    May 30, 2014 at 6:51 pm (3 years ago)

    This is a place I could stay for a good while. What beautiful views! It looks so peaceful and serene, and a wonderful escape from the city. Plus with adorable collies, it can’t get any better than that!

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      May 31, 2014 at 12:46 am (3 years ago)

      The views are definitely beautiful. Even though it rained a lot when we were there we loved it 🙂

      Reply
  9. Hannah
    May 29, 2014 at 10:31 pm (3 years ago)

    Love those dogs-they look adorable 🙂 I haven’t been out to BC yet but it’s on the list!

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      May 29, 2014 at 11:42 pm (3 years ago)

      You will love it Hannah! I’m a cat person but those two nearly turned me over to the other side. Border Collies are just the sweetest 🙂

      Reply
      • Hannah
        May 29, 2014 at 11:43 pm (3 years ago)

        In a dog girl all the way so if they turned you… Haha

  10. Muriel
    May 29, 2014 at 5:28 pm (3 years ago)

    Wow — the views are spectacular. This is such a cool experience. I always prefer to stay with locals if I can. It makes your traveling experience 100x better. Thanks for sharing this!

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      May 29, 2014 at 11:41 pm (3 years ago)

      I agree Muriel, staying with locals opens you up to so many more experiences that you wouldn’t have been able to have otherwise.

      Reply
  11. Gabor Kovacs
    May 29, 2014 at 4:14 pm (3 years ago)

    It seems you really had an authentic experience in this island, I am glad you had such a great time! Thanks for sharing your experience about this island that I haven’t really heard of before.

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      May 29, 2014 at 11:41 pm (3 years ago)

      Thanks Gabor! The Gulf Islands aren’t that well known unless you are from BC so I want to showcase how amazing they are. There is something very special about that part of the world

      Reply
  12. foreignsanctuary
    May 29, 2014 at 9:06 am (3 years ago)

    The place has a lot to offer in terms of nature. It looks like the perfect place to put on your hiking boots and go for a stroll. Canoeing on the marsh looks so peaceful and still – it must have been a wonderful experience!

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      May 29, 2014 at 12:15 pm (3 years ago)

      It’s only a small island but there are 3 Provincial Parks and you can pretty much walk all the coastline. Canoeing on the marsh was incredible, there were otters and beavers swimming around us!

      Reply
  13. Jen Seligmann
    May 29, 2014 at 7:46 am (3 years ago)

    This whole experience sounds great to me and so unique. You seem to have really gotten to know the place a lot better having stayed with a local and spending time interacting with the locals. It really looks beautiful Katie.

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      May 29, 2014 at 7:51 am (3 years ago)

      It was great and definitely unique. It;s not a touristy island at all and we were there out of season too so it was literally just us and the locals. Staying with a local meant that we went to a lot of community events and got a feel for what life is really like on the island. Highly recommend doing a Help X placement if you can!

      Reply
  14. Alexandra C.
    May 28, 2014 at 8:23 pm (3 years ago)

    This seems like it was such a great opportunity. British Columbia is so high on my list right now! Everything looks beautiful, and how fun to see it through the eyes of locals, and their dogs. Awesome. 🙂 -Alexandra

    Simply Alexandra: My Favorite Things

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      May 29, 2014 at 1:13 am (3 years ago)

      It was a fantastic experience, we definitely lucked out with our host and his dogs 🙂

      Reply
  15. lorrie
    May 28, 2014 at 1:51 pm (3 years ago)

    loved the photo hope you don’t mind but im adding one of the skipper pics to my dog pinterest board. thanks for sharing the experience you had

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      May 29, 2014 at 1:14 am (3 years ago)

      No problem Lorrie, I am sure that Skipper wouldn’t mind 🙂

      Reply
  16. Amy @ Unsettled Meliorist
    May 28, 2014 at 1:07 pm (3 years ago)

    It sounds like such a homey, quaint town. Made me want to go stay there for a while! I love BC – what a beautiful region!

    Reply
  17. zof
    May 28, 2014 at 11:05 am (3 years ago)

    Nice story. And such a nice house. Sounds like a great volunteering experience.

    Reply
  18. Jessica (@HolaYessica)
    May 28, 2014 at 7:33 am (3 years ago)

    Hippie Gothic – that sounds pretty fantastic! It sounds like you guys had a great trip.

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      May 28, 2014 at 8:55 am (3 years ago)

      It was such a great house! I especially loved the greenhouse/shower although it took a while to get used to

      Reply
  19. Rhonda @ Travel? Yes Please!
    May 28, 2014 at 3:17 am (3 years ago)

    When we were in Tofino it was fun to walk the beaches when tide was out and see the starfish nestled onto the rocks. They were so colourful but I didn’t see a purple one like that!

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      May 28, 2014 at 3:19 am (3 years ago)

      Isn’t the colour amazing! I haven’t seen them anywhere else either, only on Denman for some reason.

      Reply

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