On a cold winter’s weekend last month, Trav and I headed back to the Blue Mountains for the Yulefest celebrations that are held there every year.
We both may be from the Southern Hemisphere but after spending several years Christmassing in the colder climes of the Northern Hemisphere, having a BBQ and going to the beach on Christmas Day just doesn’t feel right anymore.
Some Irish tourists visiting Katoomba back in 1980 thought the same. In the cold winter air of the mountains they felt homesick for Ireland and nostalgic for a traditional White Christmas. After mentioning it to the hotel owner, a Christmas dinner was arranged for them and Yulefest was born. It has since become a yearly tradition with many Guesthouses, Hotels and Restaurants in the Blue Mountains participating each year in the winter months of June through to August.
A lot of hotels offer Yulefest packages, usually including one or two nights’ accommodation, breakfast and a multi-course Christmas dinner with entertainment. We decided to go with a two night package at Katoomba’s original Hotel, The Carrington.
The Carrington Hotel was first opened in 1883 under the name The Great Western. It was changed to The Carrington three years later in honour of the then Governor of NSW, Lord Carrington. Before the Hotel was built, Katoomba was a quiet mining town but quickly became a thriving mecca for tourists that came to soak up the fresh mountain air. It is the only 19th Century Resort Hotel in New South Wales that is still in use.
The Carrington is a grand old Dame, sitting pretty above its manicured gardens in the centre of town. Everything about it speaks of elegance and old fashioned charm. The stately library, well stocked with books. The ornate wood panelled bar. The cavernous lounge with its leather recliners and roaring fire. The tastefully decorated rooms. The opulent dining room replete with chandeliers and embellished ceiling.
The Hotel was lovingly restored to its original splendour after eight years of restoration works, finishing in 1998. Wandering through its many rooms and halls it felt like I had slipped back to a different time.
To get us in the Yulefest spirit, there were Christmas trees in the lounge, dining room and bar, various Christmas decorations and even Christmas tunes playing in the background.
Our first evening was spent by the fire, sipping a beer, entranced by the flickering lights on the Christmas tree. Contentment personified.
I loved our room. We chose one of the Traditional rooms, which are the original rooms in the Hotel. They have shared bathrooms which can be annoying when you wake up in the middle of the night and need to use the facilities, but they are a fair bit cheaper than the other room options and the rooms themselves look the same.
The share bathrooms were quite beautiful, with a white tiled Art Deco style, and they even had original claw foot baths. It was a bit creepy going in there late at night when there was no one around. I kept thinking of the movie ‘The Shining’. An overactive imagination and a penchant for horror movies when I was younger always comes back to bite me.
We were very impressed by the sumptuous breakfast spread which included freshly baked pastries, fresh tropical fruit (including passionfruit!), various cereals, Bircher Muesli, cold cuts, cheeses, assorted breads for toasting and juices. There was an option to purchase a cooked breakfast but with the included breakfast options being so good, there was no need.
The Carrington Cellars out the back of the Hotel was a great place to visit for organic produce, international wines and beer, specialty foods and cheeses. There is actually a chilled room just for cheese.
Yep, a room JUST FOR CHEESE! Definitely my kind of place.
So enough about the fabulous Hotel (for now).
Hiking was our main focus when we visited the Blue Mountains back in April but this time around it was about taking it slow, eating and enjoying the Yulefest spirit. The people of the Blue Mountains take their food seriously and are passionate about creating good food with local ingredients.
We revisited Saniwe for lunch, still loving their chicken bulgogi and we tried the seafood version this time too – freaking delicious.
At the Elephant Bean Café the coffee wasn’t the best I have ever had but I loved watching all the locals interacting. It seemed like everyone in the place knew each other.
I spoke about my short visit to the Yellow Deli when we were last in the Blue Mountains. It looks unassuming from the outside but inside it is a magical land of exposed polished wood from floor to ceiling, nooks and cubbies with small wooden tables tucked into them, cute lamps and a cosy fireplace. Like the idealised version of an English country pub – but with Hot Apple cider and various teas instead of ale. It reminded me a lot of the Green Dragon Inn of Hobbiton in the Lord of the Rings movies. Spending time in this dreamy cafe was the highlight of my weekend.
We went for coffee on Sunday morning at the Paragon Café, a Katoomba icon and the oldest Cafe in Australia. It has been operating since 1916 and the interior is a beautiful Art Deco Masterpiece. It is also a Chocolatier but it was a bit too early in the day for Chocolate for me. I’m sure that if my brother was with us he would have disagreed.
As well as our adventures in eating, we spent a lot of time browsing the many Antique and Second-hand stores in Katoomba. I especially enjoyed the warehouse sized Katoomba Vintage Emporium and the massive collection of old books at Mr Pickwick’s Fine Old books. They were both a treasure trove of trinkets and curiosities, more like Museums than shops. Mr Pickwick’s even had authentic roman coins! I bought a book but was tempted by so much more. Pretty exciting stuff for a history nerd like me.
I managed to fit in a bit of hiking while I was in the area too. I couldn’t completely abandon my favourite hobby! We did the short walk from Katoomba town to Echo Point then along the trail to Katoomba Falls.
Along the way we marvelled at the spectacular views over these incredible mountains and the Jamison Valley. We finished our short hike back at Echo Point, looking out over the majestic Three Sisters.
The main reason we revisited the Blue Mountains at this time of year was for the Yulefest dinner and entertainment. Five delicious courses of Christmas themed food as well as a welcome drink and canapés. Needless to say I had been really looking forward to this.
Unfortunately on Saturday afternoon I had a bad reaction to something I had eaten (probably the takeaway burger the night before) and my stomach became bloated and incredibly sore. I didn’t want to miss out on this symphony of food so I took a couple of painkillers, unzipped my dress as much as I could to ease the pressure on my stomach and I soldiered on. I was pretty uncomfortable despite the painkillers making a dent in the pain but I still enjoyed the evening – just not as much as I could have if I had felt 100%
The evening began by being led into the dining room behind a bagpiper who fancied himself as a bit of a Pied Piper. Guess that made us the rats.
We were shown to our table that was set with a mistletoe wreathed candle and colourful Christmas crackers.
Our welcome drinks were poured and the canapés were served. They were a great start to the evening with delicious dumplings, spring rolls, mushroom tartlets and asparagus wrapped in bacon.
Unfortunately our Starter and Entrée didn’t match up to the canapés and were underwhelming: Pumpkin soup and a seafood taster plate of an oyster, a prawn and a scallop. I love seafood but am not that keen on it chilled and I really don’t like raw oysters. They weren’t bad dishes, just not very inspired.
During our meal the larger than life Host kept everyone entertained with his outrageous wit and personality. Trav won a bottle of wine in a singing contest that he didn’t even properly participate in by flirting with the Host. Shameless.
We were also serenaded by carollers and a Scottish Highlands band throughout the evening. Not my favourite forms of entertainment but you have to expect this type of cheese at Christmas events.
Our main course was a Turkey Ballotine with cranberry, sweet potato puree and buttered asparagus and was the highlight of the meal for me.
There was a plum pudding covered in brandy and lit on fire for dessert, served with ice-cream. Traditional but I would have much preferred a piece of pie. You can’t beat a nice piece of pie.
We didn’t stick around for tea and coffee but quickly ate our after dinner macarons and truffles before leaving.
It was a fun evening, if slightly tedious at times, and I would recommend it to any Northern Hemisphere expats living in Australia and missing the cold charms of a White Christmas. It’s just a shame that it didn’t snow.
I woke up on our last morning feeling a lot better. We walked to our other favourite Blue Mountains town, Leura, under a sky dark with thick clouds. It was chillier than Saturday. Smoke billowed from chimneys and our breath was visable in the cold air. The grey and cold reminded me a lot of Christmas time in the UK and I admit to feeling a twinge of nostalgia.
The Leura Handmade and Produce Market was on in the Country Women’s Association Hall. Trav bought me a homemade candle in a glass jar from a friendly local. I was tempted by the local produce and cute knitted mittens. The stallholders are so friendly it makes you just want to pack up and move here.
We walked the main street and explored the gift shops and homeware stores. A Shop entirely dedicated to candles held my attention for longer than Trav would have liked. I do love candles.
With a short train trip back to Sydney, so ended another fabulous weekend in the Blue Mountains. I managed to get my Mountain fix and White Christmas fix in one go, while gorging myself on the fresh local food. It was a treat to stay in the opulence of the Carrington Hotel and I felt more relaxed than I have in ages, nursing a drink by the hearth.
Unlike many places in Australia, there is actually four distinct seasons up in the Blue Mountains and I will be exploring again in summer to see what is on offer then.
This place never gets old.