For the past few weeks I have been doing something almost unheard of for me: staying in one place for more than a couple of weeks at a time. I haven’t been away anywhere for over a month and have finally caught up on my 2015 travel posts. So it’s time for a flashback to the beginning of my 13 month Americas trip.
During the three weeks we spent in New England in Autumn 2012, Trav and I visited six States and drove over 1500 miles. It was fast paced and exciting. I had been looking forward to visiting New England to experience the fall foliage for so long and we wanted to make the most of our time there so we hired a car and hit the road from Boston.
Boston in itself was a massive highlight for me and the ideal city to kick off a year of adventure. I have written a seperate post about that amazing city. This post is about the other incredible places we visited in Massachusetts.
Because Massachusetts turned out to be my favourite State on this trip.
Everywhere we visited in Massachusetts impressed me, and for different reasons. The diversity of landscape was a big part of it. From the rolling hills of the Berkshires to the sea salt charms of gay-friendly Provincetown at the tip of Cape Cod. The landscapes may vary from western to eastern Massachusetts, but we found it all to be beautiful.
With unseasonably cold weather during our time in Vermont and New Hampshire (it snowed when we were in the Green Mountains!) we ended up spending a lot more time that originally planned in Massachusetts. Something that I ended up being grateful for.
The small towns below are the reason why I loved it so much.
Concord is a fairy-tale version of a small New England town: Perfect in every way and so damn quaint it hurts. A town full of dignified trees aflame with autumn colour, grand old Inns and a quiet main street of historic buildings with the stars and stripes proudly displayed above doorways and off lamp posts. Nothing looked out of place, everything was clean and tidy and colourful. We loved it.
Sleepy Hollow Cemetery is the final resting place of a number of celebrated authors and poets including Henry David Thoreau, Louisa May Alcott, Nathaniel Hawthorne and Ralph Waldo Emerson who are buried on a grassy hilltop known as Author’s Ridge in its serene grounds. Soft afternoon light filtering through the tree canopy and onto the historic stone gravestones as we walked across the spongy carpet of pine needles coating the ground. A quiet sense of contentment washed over me. I always find cemeteries so peaceful and Sleepy Hollow is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen.
Close to the small town centre is the Old North Bridge where the first successful armed resistance to British rule took place in 1775. The current bridge is a replica of the one that stood in the 18th Century and crosses the Concord river in the same spot. A grand old dame, Old Manse House overlooks the river and was built by Ralph Waldo Emerson’s Grandfather. An idyllic spot in the Massachusetts countryside.
The main reason I wanted to visit Concord was to visit Walden Pond, two miles from town. From 1845 to 1847, the author and transcendentalist Henry David Thoreau lived a simple life in the woods above Walden Pond, during which time he wrote about his experiences in solitude and connecting with nature in his book ‘Walden; or, Life in the Woods’. I wanted to find the spot where his cabin had been but we got lost and ended up in someone’s back yard instead. There was a reconstruction of the cabin near the parking lot and it really was tiny.
Back in town, we ate pulled pork burritos sitting by a stream in the sun. It cemented my love for this perfect little town.
The small town of Salem is best known for its bloody history, where during the witch trials of 1692-1693 twenty innocent people were put to death. The town certainly embraces its dark history now, especially during the month of October where they celebrate Halloween for the full 31 days. The streets and shop windows were decorated with fake spiders, corn stalks, jack-o-lanterns and other spooky paraphernalia and we saw quite a few people walking around in costumes. The streets were bustling with excited people embracing the most looked forward to month in Salem.
Salem is an attractive harbour-side town with cobbled pedestrian streets, eighteenth century ships in the harbour, an attractive cemetery with the grave of a Mayflower pilgrim, refined old buildings and lots and lots of witch stuff. There are numerous witch museums, a witch trials memorial, witchcraft shops and the Witch House where one of the magistrates lived and where the preliminary examinations of the accused were held. It’s all a bit much considering that the people that were tortured and murdered weren’t witches, but were just unfortunate enough to be condemned by a group of hysterical girls. We visited the memorial to the victims only.
In a cosy café I had a decadent pumpkin pie and white chocolate latte and we browsed the oldest candy store in US for more sweet treats. Despite the over the top witch stuff, Salem is a charming historic town full of quirky people. My favourite kind of people.
I hadn’t heard of Northampton when planning our road trip but we happened to pass through it on the way down from Vermont and decided to stop for lunch. Northampton is a lively college town, the Women’s College Smith has its campus here, and the town is full of cool cafes, book stores and talented buskers performing in the street.
Northampton has a vibrancy about it that was perfectly accentuated in the autumn sunshine. I had been feeling fatigued and uninterested all morning but on arrival in Northampton I felt invigorated.
After eating cheap and unhealthy food for days, we had an amazing healthy lunch at a mainly vegetarian restaurant on the main street. Eating a vegetable and tofu stir-fry with roasted pumpkin and apple cider made me finally feel nourished.
The College grounds were stunning and a great place for a wander with weeping willows, grand old buildings and majestic trees shedding their leaves. Walking around a still lake with squirrels bounding through the trees above us made me feel ensconced in nature and where we were supposed to be.
After good weather for most of our time in Massachusetts, our luck ran out when we reached the rolling hills of the Berkshires. We didn’t get to explore the countryside with its famed fall colour because of the weather but we liked what we saw in the small town of Stockbridge, where we stayed for an evening. A super quaint little town and the birthplace of Norman Rockwell, Stockbridge doesn’t have any chain stores which you don’t see often enough in the United States, a land of rampant consumerism and shopping malls.
The stately Red Lion Inn is the focal point of the town and we would have liked to eat there but it was fully booked for the whole evening. We only had a small glimpse into this pretty part of Massachusetts and I will certainly return one day (hopefully with better weather) to explore the more natural pursuits in the area.
Another cold and overcast day was spent in the fishing town of Chatham, located at the south eastern corner of Cape Cod. A charming town even under grey clouds, all signs pointed to Chatham being a close-knit community. With community notices outside local businesses and friendly locals chatting to one another on the street, I bet it is a lovely town to live in.
We checked out the scarecrow competition on display at the town park where local businesses were competing against each other. Some of the entries were very imaginative and I loved the homage to ‘The Nightmare before Christmas’. There was a pumpkin patch outside the church on Main Street and we enjoyed exploring the bookstores and gift shops in this cute town.
A bit further out of town is the Chatham Pier where we went to visit the local seals hanging around, hoping for a fisherman to give them some of their catch. They were cheeky things and were very curious about us, swimming a little way off the pier but sneaking looks at us every couple of minutes.
Our last stop in Chatham was to the Lighthouse, which overlooked a very windswept beach. Fighting against the howling wind we walked along the long, empty stretch of sand before the wind and cold got too much and we headed back to our motel.
My favourite place in Massachusetts, Provincetown is a gay-friendly hub of gentrified prettiness but with flair. Gorgeously maintained houses with flower filled backyards and colourful trim are home to a multitude of B&Bs. Colourful pride flags wave from lamp posts and the vibrant town centre is full of amazing restaurants, cool cafes, cosy bookstores and trendy galleries.
The town pier is a great spot to sit in the pre-sunset hours to while away time before dinner which we did on our first evening. There was an old man riding a bike with a transistor radio playing in his basket. He was singing along to a tune from the 60’s while he slowly looped along the wharf then back again.
The granite Pilgrim Monument sits above town and commemorates the landing of the Mayflower pilgrims in 1620 as Provincetown was their first stop before sailing on to Plymouth when they couldn’t find a water source. The monument is the tallest granite structure in the US and we climbed to the top for fantastic coastal and town views.
We stayed at the Sandcastle Resort for a fantastic off-season price in a large studio which even had its own kitchenette. After not being able to cook for the preceding two weeks this was massive for us. The resort had a Jacuzzi and two pools, which we put to good use, and it was only a five minute drive into town. After mostly staying in budget motels on the outskirts of town during our road trip, this felt like luxury.
All of the food we ate during our two nights in Provincetown was really good but my favourite meal was at The Lobster Pot where we had scallops au gratin, lobster in brandy cream sauce, red potatoes and corn cobs. The best lobster I have ever had.
Provincetown is surrounded by sand dunes, white sand beaches and forest that make up part of the protected Cape Cod National Seashore. At the Visitor Centre there is a fantastic viewing deck over the dunes and coastline. While hiking a 5.5 mile walk through the dunes and forest, small black and white birds darted at my head when I called them. Undulating dunes surrounded us. A tall forest of beech trees and scrub pine enclosed a still lake. We walked through the powdery white sand dunes of Race Point beach and I wished it was summer to fully enjoy it.
Our last sunset was at the lonely Highland Lighthouse in nearby North Truro. Perched high above the roaring Atlantic, the lighthouse looked out onto an expanse of ocean with the next land fall thousands of miles away.
Provincetown cast a spell on me.
Another amazing spot in Massachusetts, we only spent a day on Martha’s Vineyard but it is definitely somewhere I would like to return to in summer to truly experience the island’s charms. I’ve already written about my time on this idyllic island, you can find my post about it here
Massachusetts is a special State with so much to offer visitors, whether you love cities or nature. It really has it all.
Have you been to Massachusetts? What was your favourite Massachusetts small town?