moody-skies-over-malapascua-islandThe first time Malapascua Island in the Philippines popped up on my radar was when a British expat, who lived on the island and owned one of the dive shops, was murdered there.

This didn’t stop me wanting to visit, but it could be one of the reasons why my time there felt clouded with unease and figurative black clouds. But there were other reasons too.

Our long journey to the island began with a taxi ride to the airport in Manila then an early morning flight to the island of Cebu. Arriving in Cebu we had to catch another taxi to the bus station then a bus to the northern tip of the island. From there, boats leave regularly, once full, to tiny Malapascua Island.

boats-at-malapascua-island

It was a long day of travel and it wouldn’t be without its issues. But more on that in a moment.

The Philippines is made up of thousands of islands, each offering something different in regards to scenery, culture and activities. Malapascua Island’s main draw: diving with thresher sharks.

This small, mostly undeveloped island, only 3km by 1km in size, is one of the best places to dive in the Philippines and that is why most people visit.

But I’m not much of a diver. I have my Scuba Diver PADI certification – this is the lowest PADi cert you can get. I have dived in South Africa and Egypt, and I enjoyed those experiences. But I never really fell in love with it. I just don’t think that diving is for me.

So you may be thinking, why did you go to a small island that is primarily known for diving and that is difficult to get to when there were thousands of other islands to choose from?

malapascua-island-beach

Malapascua Island’s beaches. I had seen pictures of the stunning white sand beaches and invitingly calm waters in travel guides and on blogs. The flights were also reasonably cheap to Cebu in comparison to most of the other islands that I was interested in visiting. So it was done, we were to spend four nights on this tiny diving island.

palm-trees-and-beaches-on-malapascua

Now back to those issues of getting there. Everything was going well, with us catching our connections in a timely manner, and enjoying beautiful views along the coast of Cebu from the bus window. But then we got to the boat dock.

There was a sign at the dock stating that the one way journey over to Malapascua Island was 100PHP per person. We understood that we would need to wait until the boat filled up before leaving and there weren’t many people around.

After waiting a while the captain said we could leave right away with a half full boat if we all paid 200PHP each. We reluctantly agreed, not knowing how long the wait would end up being otherwise.

So we paid up…. and then we continued to wait. After about 20 minutes a whole bunch of locals got on, not paying anything. I don’t mind paying more as a tourist but we didn’t think it was fair that we paid double the going rate, the locals paid nothing, and we still had to wait despite being told we were going to be leaving immediately.

Tempers flared and it ended up turning into a heated argument, a Russian backpacker really going at the captain with the rest of us chipping in. But he refused to budge and wouldn’t give us back the extra money we paid.

He even tried to charge us more to take a small boat from where the larger boat had to anchor due to the shallow waters of low tide, but we steadfastly refused to pay any more and he ended up swallowing that cost at least.

It wasn’t a great start to our time on Malapascua Island.

Arriving on Malapascua Island

The beach we landed on was a crescent of dirty sand crisscrossed by ropes, anchoring the many boats in the harbour to the shore.

The sun was beginning to set as we walked through a village bustling with people, sitting out the front of shops and houses, shooting the breeze. Random chickens wandered freely while beautiful cocks were tied to poles by a string attached to their feet; prized possessions of their owners. Stray cats lounged against the sides of buildings, still warm from the sun.

village-street-on-malapascua-island

We quickly became lost in the sandy maze of pathways lined by simple houses and shopfronts. People stared as we passed. I felt somewhat uncomfortable and not very welcome.

With hope dwindling that we would find our guesthouse before sunset. We asked one of the locals for directions and were pointed where to go – only another 50 metres away.

Over the next few days we mainly based ourselves on Bounty Beach, the white sand tourist beach that stretches around the south east corner of Malapascua Island. It was an obligatory tropical beach paradise, you know, all turquoise water and powdery white sand.

beautiful-beach-on-malapascua-island

Beach restaurants and dive resorts lined the beach, a palm tree fringed, sandy pathway linking them. This was the tourist heart of the island and I was surprised how quiet and unassuming it was, especially compared to some of the Thai Islands. Tourism is a lot newer on Malapascua Island, and you could tell.

sandy-pathways-on-malapascua

Between frequent showers we swam in the warm ocean and lay in the soft sand, warming ourselves in the sun. When it rained we hung out in the restaurant at our guesthouse or at one of the covered beach bars, looking out at our rain-drenched surroundings. We drunk cocktails on bean bags on the beach, watching a colourful sunset light up the sky.

Those cocktails and that sunset is one of my favourite memories from Malapascua Island; one of those perfect travel moments.

malapascua-sunsetBut we didn’t just beach lounge…

Adventures on Malapascua Island

One sunny morning we decided to check out more of Malapascua Island by walking it length to length. After walking Bounty beach to its southern terminus, we cut through the village to the less-groomed local beach where the boats from Cebu land, and then we were northward bound.

Inland we encountered palm trees and fragrantly scented tropical flowers along a dirt path cushioned by long, swaying grasses. It was peaceful away from the busy village streets.

We passed a deserted rocky beach, bought sodas from a small shop to cool ourselves down, before entering a smaller, quieter village in the north of Malapascua Island.

Through the village to the coast we found a long, mostly deserted stretch of white sand beach with no restaurants or dive resorts in sight. Dark clouds out at sea edged closer as I soaked up the sun. After a quick dip it was time to go; the sky darkened further.

small-cove-on-malapascua-island

About fifteen minutes later the storm clouds reached us and a mighty deluge rained down. With nowhere to take shelter, we simply just kept walking. Within minutes we were soaked to the bone, water dripping off our foreheads and into our eyes.

The rain energised then exhausted me and the walk back seemed to take a lot longer than it had originally when the sun was still shining.

On the surface things our time on the island was going reasonably well, apart from the boat rip off and being rained on, but I felt a deep sense of unease during my time on Malapascua Island. A large part of that was the relationship issues we were dealing with.

After being apart for much of the previous six months, I felt disconnected from Trav. At night, I cried uncontrollably without really understanding why. I attacked Trav with cruel words for no reason. I wasn’t happy. I felt lost. I didn’t know how we would be able to make it work anymore, when the lives we truly wanted were so different. It would only be three weeks later that we broke up.

A scary return journey from our day trip to Kalanggaman Island also didn’t help. And then there was the murder playing in the back of my mind.

Lasting Thoughts on Malapascua Island

My memories from Malapascua Island are tinged with sadness. I remember the dark skies, and my dark mood. Being ripped off and rained on. Feeling helpless and lost. But I also remember the turquoise waters, powdery white sand and that one special sunset when I thought that everything would be OK.

Maybe my experience on Malapascua Island it was just a case of the right place at the wrong time. And the wrong person. 

Have you been to Malapascua Island? What did you think?

peach-sunset-on-malapascua

6 Comments on Moody Skies Over Malapascua Island

  1. Megan | Red Around The World
    January 19, 2017 at 8:42 am (3 months ago)

    That sounds like my experience getting there and over charged. I loved it there though and would love to go back! I don’t dive and ended up spending a week there and would have happily stayed longer.

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      January 19, 2017 at 5:08 pm (3 months ago)

      Pretty much everyone I know that went there was ripped off – not good. I’m pleased you loved it, it is a beautiful place

      Reply
  2. jade
    October 8, 2016 at 3:31 pm (7 months ago)

    I am so sorry that you were ripped off by those people.. It hurts me a lot to hear these things especially when my mother was born and raised in this island and this is the place where I go back and fort to rest now.I am from the U.S. and I am also a resident there and they also rip me off whenever they can. But when there are tourists around me and I am renting a boat, I take them with me and I don’t let them pay which boat people get very upset sometimes at me because they still want to make extra money even though they are already getting fully paid by me. I hate injustice and I don’t like it when they trick so many people and they don’t care as long as they can make an extra few bucks out of the people.. I think about their future, they are all relying on the tourists income! If they continue to keep doing these crazy things even the stealing like what they did to my husband last April,, who is going to go back to that island? What a shame!!! I too,, include myself as an islander from Malapascua because that’s where I practically rest every year or twice a year in our property. But I stay away from all the noises and the people as much as I could. We have our own little paradise.. As little as that island is, our place, this oceanfront/beachfront, paradise like property hard to find. You can watch the sunset everyday, the birds singing, all kinds of butterflies to chase around or to put on your hand, fruit trees and orchids and all sorts of flowers that would bring delight to us. Do you like eating papaya? We probably have more than 100 trees of papaya.. You will also enjoy walking around the lagoon area which there are a lot of fish to see. We kept this place private , that is why hard to find maybe. but when people get lost and stumble in our place , we welcome them and allow them to take pictures and rest at our tree house or have a papaya. Look for Malapascua Hidden Bay Resort. If you ever come back next time, please come and stop by, and say hello! You won’t be taken advantage of. Our place is private but you arenwelcome to visit..

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      October 11, 2016 at 10:38 am (7 months ago)

      Hi Jade, thanks for your lovely message. It definitely is a shame and a lot of people wouldn’t want to come back after being ripped off. It is a stunning island and your property sounds amazing – a treehouse is my dream home. I will definitely keep that in mind if and when I visit again 🙂

      Reply
  3. Lindsay @ Frugal Frolicker
    September 10, 2016 at 5:31 pm (8 months ago)

    Oh man, I’ll be on Malapascua in about a week! Very excited to get my advanced diving cert, but now I’m a little worried about being ripped off on the boat. Should I just wait til the boat is full and say no to paying more to leave ASAP? I think I read somewhere that the last boat leaves around 5pm regardless of being full, so if that’s true then I’ll definitely get there at some point I guess! 😛

    Reply
    • theworldonmynecklace
      September 11, 2016 at 10:12 am (8 months ago)

      I’m sure you will have an awesome time there, under different circumstances I definitely think I would have enjoyed it more. I think we got there around 4pm, not sure of the deal with the last boat and the charge. I think they just do whatever and charge whatever they want as that is the only way to get over there. Unfortunately that wasn’t the last time I was ripped off in the Philippines – it seemed to be a constant thing

      Reply

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