What To Expect When Hiking the Harding Icefield Trail in Alaska

If you are traveling to Seward and want to hike the Harding Icefield trail, then read on to find out what to expect…

Alaska is quite possibly the best place to hike in the world. Well, one of the best places anyway.

The sheer wildness and diversity of the landscape coupled with the emptiness of the state make it a dream destination for nature wanderlusters like me.

The iconic Harding Icefield Trail in Kenai Fjords National Park ended up on my radar pretty early on in my Alaska planning. A hike through temperate rainforest, alpine meadows, and high above the mighty Exit Glacier to a viewpoint over a gigantic ice field: Yes please!

Arriving in Seward I was a bit nervous about doing the hike by myself, mostly because of the abundance of bears that live in the area, so I signed up to do a ranger-led hike which was conveniently taking place the day after I arrived in town.

With the trail being just over eight miles out and back with 3600 feet of elevation gain, I knew I was going to be in for a long day of hiking. And I was bubbling over with excitement about it.

I ended up making friends pretty easily at my hostel in Seward and three of those new friends were also planning to do the ranger-led hike so we booked the shuttle to the Exit Glacier together for the next morning.

Hiking the Harding Icefield Trail on a Ranger-Led Hike

We arrived just as the two rangers that were leading the hike had started their debrief. There were a lot of people that had turned up to do the trail and we all listened intently, laughing nervously when one of the rangers was describing what to do if a bear attacks you. Apparently, you don’t start fighting back until it literally starts eating you. Hmmm.

After the terrifying briefing, we were asked to split into two groups, one was the fast group and one was the slow group. My friend Ruth and I opted to go with the slow group because we wanted to dawdle and take pictures, while our friends Rachel and Guy went with the fast group.

Setting Out on the Trail

Setting off along a flat paved path was definitely not a sign of things to come. After five minutes, the long ascent to the Harding Icefield began.

The trail led us upwards through cottonwood and alder forest, only a narrow pathway cut through the thick greenery. At clearings along the way, we stopped to regroup and take photos of the unfolding views over the glacier and down to the valley below.

Our guide was very informative and pointed out all the edible wild berries along the trail. I tried salmon berries and watermelon berries. Unfortunately, they both didn’t have a lot of flavor.

The trail wasn’t as steep as I had envisaged it to be but it was still an uphill slog. We lost half our group by the halfway point – many just giving up, others falling way behind.

The First Rest Stop on the Harding Icefield Trail

After a couple of miles, we reached an alpine meadow above the tree line that was bursting with colorful wildflowers and had incredible views over Exit Glacier. The scenery was astounding and we stopped for a million photos.

Conquering the Hardest Section of the Harding Icefield Hike

The hardest part of the hike was still to come: the steep switchbacks on rocky exposed terrain that led up from the meadow.

With small loose rocks and scree, it was easy to slip as we gained altitude. Cascades of glacial water tumbling over the trail allowed me to top up my water bottle. It was some of the best water I have ever tasted, and it was ice cold.

Lazy marmots stretched out their furry girth on flat rocks above the path.

The Harding Icefield trail began to pass patches of snow as we neared the top and then we were hiking through it. The pure white was blinding and spectacular under a bluebird sky.

We reached an emergency hut, just a shell to take shelter in if you were stuck up there in a storm. After a short break, we tackled the last part of the hike, through increasingly larger fields of snow to the viewpoint over the Harding Icefield.

Reaching the Harding Icefield

Endless ice stretched to the horizon in front of us, vast and wonderful: 700 square miles of blue-white punctuated with lonely rock peaks.

The Harding Icefield is one of the largest non-polar icefields in the world and the largest entirely within US borders. It is prehistoric, forming 23,000 years ago at a time when ice covered one-third of the earth.

Rachel and Guy were still up there so we sat with them for a while, silenced by the majesty of it all.

A couple of ptarmigans, Alaska’s State bird, were hanging around. One of them already had its white feathers which apparently means winter is coming, a bit disconcerting as it was only mid-July.

The groups had split up at this stage so the four of us decided to head back down by ourselves as Rachel and Guy both had bear spray and we hadn’t seen any bears on the way up.

Descending the Trail

It was so much faster coming down. It always is. I slipped over in the snow a couple of times but otherwise, we arrived back to the valley floor unscathed and uneaten by bears. Not being eaten by bears is always a win.

And so ended a fabulous day, hiking one of my new all-time favorite trails.

The Harding Icefield trail has such varied terrain that truly gives you an idea of the diversity of  Alaska’s incredible environments. Alpine meadows, scree slopes, snow, glaciers, rainforest, waterfalls, and an ice field. And all in an 8-mile hike.

Pretty impressive if you ask me.

How to Hike the Harding Icefield Trail

Getting to the Harding Icefield Trail

To reach the beginning of the Harding Icefield trail. you can either drive and park at Exit Glacier Car Park or take the Exit Glacier Shuttle which costs $20 return with a few different times to choose from.

Difficulty of the Harding Icefield Trail

If you aren’t much of a hiker then I would rate the Harding Icefield trail as difficult. It was easier than I thought it would be but it still involved a four mile slog of reasonably steep uphill hiking. And then you have to go back down. My thighs burned a bit the next day.

Length of the Harding Icefield Trail

8.2miles or 13.2km return

Elevation Gain of the Harding Icefield Trail

3600 feet or 1100 meters

Hiking Tip

Check if there are any ranger-led Harding Icefield hikes. When I visited they were from 9 am on Saturdays in July to August. They are free to join.

Where To Stay in Seward

If you are traveling on a budget or are traveling alone and want to meet people, I highly recommend staying at the Moby Dick Hostel which has dorm and private rooms, a guest kitchen, and an excellent location right downtown.

For hotels, mid-range options include the Harborview Inn, Exit Glacier Lodge, Hotel Seward, and Seward Adventure Lodge. More luxurious options include Harbor 360 Hotel Seward, Spruce Lodge, and Gateway Hotel.

For vacation rentals, these options are close to town, affordable, and highly rated:

• Charming 1 bedroom in Seward Historical Landmark building the heart of downtown
• Two-Bedroom European Style Chalet With Ocean Views
• Charming Downtown One Bedroom Suite
• Historic One Bedroom Apartment Downtown

Would you hike to the Harding Icefield? Do you think you would be up to the challenge of the Harding Icefield trail?

If you liked this post, check out some of my other Alaska content:

• Fun Things To Do in Seward AK This Summer
• The Best Things To Do in Sitka, Alaska
• Sitka Hiking: Scrambling to the Summit of Mount Verstovia
• The Best Things To Do in Juneau When it Rains
• Fun Things To Do in Talkeetna, Alaska
• Ultimate Denali National Park Guide for the Budget Traveler
• Wild Alaskan Terrain Along the Mount Healy Overlook Trail
• Denali Flightseeing: The Best Way To Get Close to Denali
• An Aquatic Safari Through Kenai Fjords National Park in Alaska
• Eating Anchorage and Other Tales from the City
• The Best Day Trip from Anchorage: Hiking Flattop Mountain
• Summer in Alaska Itinerary

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